From Ancient to Delicious

As recommended to me by every Vietnamese person I have met, I went to the Hanoi Museum of Ethnology. And they were right! This was the most comprehensive ethnological museum I've ever encountered (and probably the only one). The most interesting thing about it was that the tribes and culture presented here are still very much alive. I was initially annoyed that they would put something that is still very much alive in a museum. However, because the Viet people far outnumber the smaller H'mong or Muong tribes, the intent is to promote understanding, so that these ethnic minorities will not die for the sake of modernization. Interesting idea (the above photo is of a traditional Banhar community hall).

Right next to my hotel is the "Ancient House" on 87 Ma May street. It's not very ancient, really... only just over 100 years old. However, the city of Hanoi has started renovating many of the old houses located in the Old Quarter (the most expensive land in Hanoi, and yet in shambles). Called a "tube house" for the 6-8 meter wide storefront and 30 meter length, this old artisan's dwelling and workshop, originally housing one family, housed five families from 1954 to 1996... one family in each room. No one lives here anymore, to allow the house to stand as a classic example of the original architecture in the area. Now, the city is restoring houses and allowing the occupants to continue to live in them. Oh, and yes. The picture above is of the original toilet. I guess you have to have really great aim...

This is looking southwest, from the southeast side of West Lake. Hanoi is growing like crazy, but without a city plan... so the growing is haphazard (and it's all thanks to the communist need to control everything through beaurocratic b.s.). Still an impressive view, though, right? If there weren't so much smog, you would also be able to see the mountains behind the city. THOSE are really beautiful!

Yes, Vietnamese food CAN be delicious. However, I've had more than my share of strange rodents and non-kosher body parts. The worst so far is boiled blood (I thought it was brown tofu at first...). And, to its credit, all the sauces that the food is cooked in taste so great, that even the mole/possum I ate yesterday wasn't that bad. All in all, everything that is available in the States is truly fantastic here! Above is a picture of Cha Ca (from the famous restaurant Cha Ca Le Vong). Fried fish, with wilted Vietnamese veggies, rice noodles, and yummy sauces and peanuts = recipe for deliciousness. :) The Portland restaurant, PokPok offers something similar... they even reference this Hanoi restaurant for its creation, it's THAT good!